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Calls Sequence


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Typical Sequence of Calls in a DOWNHILL Semi-Technical Evacuation

In The Beginning

Call
Explanation
ON BELAY?
Litter captain to belayer, making sure the belayer is ready
BELAY ON
belayer signals he is ready (or says STANDBY if not)
READY TO LIFT?
LC to LT, asking if they are ready to pick up the litter
READY
LT's response _if_ ready, STANDBY if not
LIFT
LT lifts litter
PRELOAD?
LC to B, LT ready to test belayer
PRELOAD
Belayer echoes, ready for the test, otherwise STANDBY
STOP
Whoops, belayer didn't have enough friction
BELAY OFF
B to LC, Belayer needs to reposition for more friction, needs to reposition
BELAY OFF
LC echoes, belayer can now go off belay
BELAY ON
B to LC, Belayer is ready again
PRELOAD?
LC to B, LT ready to test belayer
PRELOAD
Belayer echoes, ready for the test, otherwise STANDBY
THANK YOU
LC To B, Belayer held this time. command means preload is over

Starting the Pitch

Call
Explanation
DOWN SLOW?
LC to B, asking to move downhill
DOWN SLOW
Belayer echoes command
DOWN FASTER?
LC to B, belayer not letting rope through fast enough
DOWN FASTER
Belayer echoes
TWO-OH
B to Downhill Rope Handler; 20 feet of rope left, new belay site needed soon.
ONE-OH
B to Downhill Rope Handler; 10 feet of rope left, new belay site needed now.
STOP:
B to LC; belayer locks off at ONE-OH.

Mid-Pitch Adventures

Call
Explanation
STOP
Anyone to B (LTM has to remove a rock in his shoe)
DOWN SLOW?
LC to B, litter team ready to move now
DOWN SLOW
Belayer echoes command
ROCK
Anyone to everyone; something is falling near the litter. Take cover
CLEAR
Whoever said rock to everyone, Danger from "rock" has passed
DOWN SLOW?
LC to B, belayer automatically locks off on "rock" or falling"
DOWN SLOW
Belayer echoes command
FALLING
Anyone to B, somebody slipped, belayer locks litter off
THANK YOU
LC to B, litter team has regained a stable position
DOWN SLOW
LC to B, belayer has automatically locked off on "rock" or falling"
DOWN SLOW
Belayer echoes command

Ending the Pitch

Call
Explanation
CLEAR
LC to LT, sweep under litter for obstructions
READY TO LOWER
LC to LT, asking if they are ready to lower the litter
READY
LT's response _if_ ready, STANDBY if not
LOWER
LT lowers litter
OFF BELAY
LC to Belayer, Litter is stable and can be taken off belay
BELAY OFF
Belayer to LC, AFTER, completely disentangling rope from himself and tree

Mit Robertson, 10/96

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