Virile St. Croix     Tender Vittles In the spirit of comparison, this reviewer recently took in dinner at two Charlottesville eateries with little in common but the potential to make patrons feel a tad out of place. After careful scrutiny, however, one finds that neither the Biltmore Grill nor Big Jim's are what they initially seem. It is the upscale clientele which first braces the casual diner approaching the sizable outdoor patios of the Biltmore. Of course, this could be attributed to the late afternoon football game, which saw the restaurant teeming with overdressed, slurring, Richmond Royalty types. But the decor can nonetheless be described as very pleasant, possibly even genteel -- beautiful hardwood floors, tasteful lighting, and the intricate, expansive outdoor porch. One is easily tipped off to the true nature of the place, however, by the plastic chairs arranged about the tables. The cuisine itself is fine, if a bit misleading. My companion and I agreed to eat lightly, and ordered an appetizer and two salads. The spinach and artichoke dip is fabulous, with a mild flavor and agreeable texture. But for an appetizer at such a hefty price, there just is not enough on the plate. The ornate salads burst alive with mixed greens, strips of grilled chicken, and large vegetables, but the diminutive production is ultimately saved by the pizza bread which fences it in. Be sure, however, to avoid anything served with the overpowering bleu cheese -- it nearly ruined my salad with a taste described by my fellow diner as that of "rotting flesh." A harsh judgment, to be sure, but an apt description for its ability to undermine the flavor balance of the remaining concoction. The rest of the menu seemed like typical fare: a good but standard selection. Granted, it is a step up from College Inn, but the fancy veneer cannot overshadow its mediocrity. Big Jim's, on Angus Road off of Route 29, might be intimidating for different reasons. The decor is late 80s hick -- a couple of TVs, NASCAR memorabilia, and plenty of Allan Jackson on the juke. Big Jim's did not grace the Playboy Top 100 College Bars listing like the Biltmore (ed. note -- reviewer "only reads for the ratings"), but it would no doubt be found on a similar poll in Easy Rider or American Shitkicker. Jim specializes in gut-busting, red-blooded, red meat American dishes like fries, burgers, and barbecue. While it would never pass for health food or haute cuisine, Big Jim's offerings transcend its initially off-putting appearance. The burgers are easily the biggest in town, if not east of Texas, and are prepared with an expert touch. Big Jim's is no dive -- everything is handled with the utmost care and respect. Even the wait staff is sweet as Southern tea, as well as fast and efficient. The pork barbecue is legendary, and the chicken fillet sandwich is big and flavorful. The appetizers are solid, heaping piles of fried food. The wings are a standout: big meaty portions served with Revenge sauce, a barbecue base brimming with chunks of hot peppers. Best of all, Big Jim's will not cost you monetarily (intestinally is a different story). The sandwich platters, complete with two pounds of fries, cole slaw, and a pickle, run less than five dollars. Go on and have a beer too -- domestics are only about a dollar. Big Jim's is good, clean, greasy fun, and you will not walk away disappointed. In a town noted for very good and eclectic restaurants, the Biltmore and Big Jim's probably do not even register a blip on the Charlottesville scale. This can be easily explained, for the Biltmore is a cheap place masquerading as an upscale establishment, and Big Jim's is a great traditional Americana type fixture which would no doubt be a hit with an artsy makeover. They are simple reminders that diners must keep in mind what they are looking for in a restaurant -- looks, ambiance, and surroundings, or food which can do justice to the decor. It's easy to get caught up with image in Charlottesville, but for chrissake, do not let it ruin your meal.

back to Decweb main